Valparaíso-- Go to Paradise.

Gorgeous 

Week two of vacation began on Saturday in Temuco after our bittersweet goodbyes to the Winter Campers. T-shirts were signed, pictures were taken  and many hugs were exchanged with promises of Facebook connections.  That evening Nicole,  Arcelle, Allison, Shannan and I had late buses to Santiago and eventually Valparaíso. Both camp teams wanted to go out and celebrate the end of our tiresome week but we wanted to assure we had enough time to get to out "10:30pm" bus. We went to a nearby bar and shared a few pitchers of Stella Artois and chorrilana (French fries, meat, and a fried egg...I will try anything once). I double checked our tickets and soon realized I have not yet mastered military time: our bus was actually at 11:30pm. We laughed about it and were glad it wasn't the opposite mistake.  We boarded the two story "party bus" right on time in our private back row with 'salon cama' beds and I was asleep before we left the Temuco city limits. I woke up well rested just as we entered Santiago where we changed buses. Arcelle departed for Viña del Mar as we headed for Valparaíso. An hour and a half and some loud Chilean snoring later, we met Shannan and Allison at the Rodoviario terminal and taxied to our hostel.  The hostel was very artsy and eclectic from the outside. We rang the bell and waited and waited...until a blonde girl opened the door and horsely asked us if we had reservations and to come in. The place had an odor that I could never describe even if I tried. It was filthy. Our room was apparently occupied so she offered to let us leave our things in her room (also full of snoring foreigners) while we walked around. Then we went off and explored the city and searched  for a different hostel while enjoying a delicious breakfast at Hotel Alcala. We browsed a few and stumbled upon one that was quieter, peaceful and very clean. We met an American man there that lived in Madison, WI (¡chico mundo!) living in Chile for Ph. d work on social revolutions. We decided to stay there at Canta'ito and it was a great choice. The owners (Otey, Oscar and Carlos) were hospitable, fun, and very helpful. They gave us the best breakfast each morning of fresh yogurt, kiwi, apples, bananas,  and oats, tea and toast. Not to mention Otey had the most beautiful two-year old with auburn red hair named Evalou. They gave us recommendations and insider intel on things worth doing.  We visited the gorgeous murals on seemingly every surface, miradors, cute cafes,  had empanandas on the street, visited the port, Pablo Neruda's San Sebastiana home (a favorite!), and Viña del Mar.  Viña del Mar was breathtaking. My California travel companions were comparing parts to Malibu, LA, etc. it was absolutely beautiful. A sunny, gorgeous day as we walked along the ocean seeing pelicans and seals being fed fish from the local restaurants in search of a restaurant for ourselves. We ate a typical meal of 4 courses (bread and pebre, soup, an entree and dessert) for $5 or so. We ventured to the famous Viña del Mar and Casino and played a few slots; I lost 2,000 pesos and Nicole won 10,000 pesos. We then visited the Archeoplogical Museum, well just the outside of it. They brought an original  Moai, a statue of the Rapa Nui people, from Easter Island to the museum. We dodged the stray dogs that were following us with a cone of manjar flavored gelato.  After a few failed attempts at seeing live music at La Piedra Feliz or dancing at El Huevo (per Vanessa's suggestion) we enjoyed a caparihña at Kabala, the red-white-blue house drink at Macaluca and wine at El Pimenton with seafood soup (sharing a table with a family of less than pleasant Brits). The city is full of charm and character but also garbage and poverty that are reminders of the developing nation. We were very careful but the port city can be dangerous.  I fell in love with both Valparaíso and Viña del Mar and I will return one day!