Medoza

Once we are out of the mini-bus on Argentinian soil, our Mendoza vacation could finally begin. After about 30 minutes of wandering and asking for directions (while attempting to mask our acquired Chilean accents), we decided to hop in a taxi. 10 minutes and $26 pesos later, we arrived at Hostel Itaka on the main street of Downtown Mendoza. The street washington littered with boutiques, bars, restaurants and well-dressed Argentinians. We settled into our 4 person room and explored our abode. There was a bar/restaurant attached, a pool and patio outside and spacious common areas. After a not-so quick nap and off-brand DayQuil in attempt to cure the fever-cold-chills I was experiencing, we went out and explored the area.

It was still early on the Argentinian timeline of fiestas and being Wednesday, pretty tame. Thursday morning I was feeling much better and we set off to explore Parque San Martín. It was a 4 block walk from our hostel and absolutely breathtaking. One thing that the Argentinans do more of than Chileans  is exercise. We encountered a rowing team in the river, a soccer team doing sprint practices and various joggers with dogs actually on leashes. The views of the mountains as a seemingly artificial curtain at every view continues to take my breath away. After a stroll thru the park, we located Plaza Independcia where a street fair was taking place. Perhaps because we were still pretty early or the lack of business, only a handful of vendors were open. We shopped around for awhile and enjoyed the sun. A piece of cake and tea from Caffé Jack seemed necessary so we sat on the cobblestone road outside and conversed as we were served.

Back at the hostel we met a couple from Canada and all decided to take part in the offered "pasta and vino" dinner. It was nice to talk with other travelers- although it seems that nearly everyone is "just traveling for 2-4-6 weeks/months/years." The six of us went out for a drink at G2 where I indulged in a Caiparinha.

Friday morning we set off with the intentions to locate a bus to take is an hour away to Maipu for the wineries. After numerous suggestions from friends and generally positive Internet reviews- we found Mr. Hugo and patronized his bike/wine tour establishment. $30 pesos for a bike rental for the day and helpful information on which bodegas to visit and we were off. We started the farthest away at Familia Di Tomasso. It was the most informative, oldest, and very beautiful. Next we stopped at the ultra modern Mevi Bodega with breathtaking views and sampled wines in a gorgeous deck overlooking the grapes and Andes. Thirdly, we stopped at a chocolate factory with various liqueurs to sample. Laura and Lindsay decided that was there they wanted to stop but not completely satisfied, Colleen and I stayed in search of one more. We happened across the beer garden and enjoyed a Rubia in the sun. The whole day was gorgeous and I got some much needed sun on my skin. After regrouping back at Mr. Hugo's, a chat with our new friends, and a gift from Mr. Hugo himself, we left.

That night we went out for Mexican at Taco Tabasco and despite confusing what I thought to be shredded beef with a hot dog-like substance chopped in my quesadilla, enjoyed it. Overall, Argentina  exudes a more European energy, generally less expensive, and very clean. We sadly had a 9am bus on Saturday morning but got to take in the views during daylight once again. The border control took about an hour for our 50 passenger bus. Colleen and I watched What to Expect While You're Expecting on the iPad and a quick six hours later we were back in Santiago to kill time before our respective 10pm buses home.

Fiestas Patrias and getting to Mendoza.

The second half the Stay in Santiago was filled with celebration in moderation. Monday afternoon we took in the Fonda in our neighborhood of Providencia at Parque Inez Suarez. It was very family oriented with plenty of vendors, a petting zoo, rides and food. We grabbed empanadas for lunch and watched some of the entertainment. Being Midwestern girls, Colleen and I indulged in a local cerveza from Capital Brewers in Santiago. 

Tuesday mor ing, the holiday itself, we ate breakfast and made ourselves Pisco-Ginger Ales. After a grilled cheese, made by Laura in the hostel, we set off for Parque O'Higgins. An hour and a half of walking later, we arrived. This Fonda was larger and a little more wild. More of the same: chicha, terremotos, empanadas and skewers of meat. We left as the crowd got rowdier- indicated by intoxicated vagabonds with lack of concern for where they were choosing to vomit. 

Wednesday morning, Colleen and I had an 8am bus to Mendoza. Up and put before sunrise we made it to the station with plenty of time, waited at the terminal they told us between the 10 possible platforms but due to lack of proper reading of the bus name and it being at the wrong platform, we seemed to had missed it. I spoke with the representative at the counter who was less than empathetic. A frazzled 50-something man grabbed my tickets and offered to take us in his mini-bus. I was hesitant but a Chilean couple next to us we're in the same situation and agreed to do the same. We find out shortly after that Laura and Lindsay are already scheduled for this bus and off we go through the Andes at 9:00 am. 

The ride was filled with curves (30 sharp ones that were marked by signs stating their danger). The views were spectacular, however. Despite being very cold and windy, the ride was not terrible. Customs into Argentina was pretty painless thanks to our smaller group. A few questions about what I was doing in Chile and the duration of our trip later, we were off again.  We arrived in Mendoza at 2:30 and began the process of locating our hostel. We are located on the main street and the hostel has a bar and restaurant. Irish bars, happy hours, restaurants and boutiques litter the street and is somewhat similar to State Street in Madison with a European vibe. 

Wednesday night we got calzones/pitas for dinner and then to La Carmela for drinks. We watched approximately 20 minutes of the Argentina vs. Brasil game and called it a night. No wild partying yet but that has been a good thing due to my current health state of a possible, yet improving sinus infection. We scoped out a market Thursday morning and  made plans for a biking wine tour for Friday. We are now laying by the pool at the hostel as everything closes for a period of a few hours in the afternoons. 

I can't get enough Pablo Neruda and how I spent the first days of vacation.

Friday evenng I left Galvarino after a fun-filled day of "parading" with the students and teachers of my school. We marched to the music of the high school band in a militaristic fashion. It was unlike anything I have done on the 4th of July next to a Lexus advertising Joe Rice for County Supervisor,  waving to the children of the Northshore of Milwaukee and tossing candy to the children I once babysat. Traditional dances were performed and the mayor spoke. 

I boarded the bus for Temuco at 7pm on Friday where I met Shannan for a quick Pisco Souron Avenida  Alemania before heading to Rodoviaro for my 11pm bus to Santiago. Half an hour delayed, in the second to last row of the second floor of the over heated bus behind a crying 6 week old baby we were headed for Santiago. I drifted in and out of sleep to be fully awoken to Party Rock Anthem on lasting thought he overhead speaker and video on the screens of the bus as we pulled into Terminal La Borja. Colleen arrived shortly after and after some communication and finding out we were not in the same terminal, we reunited in search of our hostel. 

A sweet, uncle-like cab driver took us to our location after a bit of confusion in attempts to locate our dwelling. We arrived to find it nestled in the quiet streets of the charming Provedencia neighborhood. Laura and Lindsay arrived in the afternoon and we had dinner at the hostel while chatting with some of the colorful characters that hostels generally bring together. Extravagent stories, a fake birthday toast and some champagne later we all decided we were tired and called it a night. 

Sunday morning we headed out early after discovering the one of three of Pablo Neruda's homes was a very short walk away and open for tours. I was very excited as he is one of my favorites and had seen is La Sebastiana home in Valparaíso, anxious to see how they compared. Thanks to my expired Marquette ID, a $1500 ($3 USD) fee gave us a tour in Spanish. The house is modeled to look like a boat with one part replicating a lighthouse . It is filled with beautiful furniture and art that were added by the foundation after his house was burned by the military government. It was for his third and final wife, Mathilde. The house had leather chairs, a collection Royal Dalton's and blown glass spheres and I couldn't help think of my Dad and his collections. 

After leaving the museum, we happend upon the Cerro San Cristóbal, an 880 meter hill. The funicular, or cable car to the top was not running and opted for walking rather than the bus. A few breaks on the way up, we made it. It was worth every step. There is an amphitheater for masses and a breathtaking statue of the Virgin Mary as well as a chapel. It surrounded by the Andes and amazing views of the city. I offered intentions for my family and friend (Especially my grandma, Mary Anne, for her birthday and in thanks for my opprotunities.) the prayer offered to Our Mother of Santiago is: 

Oración a la Madre de Santiago

Madre de Santiago.
Virgen Inmaculada. Señora del San Cristóbal,
confiados en tu bondad y en tu ternura
queremos presentarte nuestra oración.
Mira, Madre, a tu ciudad.
Aquí tienes nuestras casas y poblaciones,
nuestras fábricas, cárceles y escuelas,
nuestros hospitales, estadios y caminos.
Queremos invocar tu protección sobre nosotros.
Haz que nunca falte el pan en nuestras mesas,
ni cariño en los hogares.
Haz que siempre haya justicia en nuestras leyes
y respeto por cada ser humano.
Mira, Madre, a nuestros enfermos,
que te suplican la salud.
Mira a los pobres y los tristes
que piden justicia y alegría.
Mira a los abandonados y solitarios
que buscan amor y comprensión.
Mira nuestras familias
que necesitan diálogo y unidad.
Protege a nuestros niños y a los jóvenes,
y no te olvides de los ausentes y viajeros.
Eres la Madre del amor y la esperanza.
Eres la Virgen del dolor resucitado.
Ayúdanos a confiar en el Padre.
Ayúdanos a seguir a tu Hijo.
Ayúdanos a escuchar al Espíritu
y a amar a nuestra Iglesia.
Haz de nosotros un país de hermanos.
Amén


Translated::

Prayer to the mother of Santiago

Mother of Santiago.

Immaculate Virgin. Madam de San Cristóbal,

trusting in your goodness and your tenderness

We present you our prayer.

Look, mother, to your city.

Here are our houses and people,

our factories, prisons, and schools,

our hospitals, stadiums and roads.

We want to invoke your protection upon us.

Make that never miss the bread on our tables,

or honey in the homes.

Make that justice will always be in our laws

and respect for every human being.

Look, mother, our sick,

that you beg you health.

Look at the poor and the sad

that you call for Justice and joy.

Look at the abandoned and lonely

that you are looking for love and understanding.

Watch our families

needed dialogue and unity.

It protects our children and young people,

and don't forget the absent and travelers.

You're the mother of love and hope.

You are the Virgin of risen pain.

Help us to trust in the father.

Help us to follow your son.

Help us to listen to the spirit

and to love our Church.

Make us a country of brothers.

Amen

.

Homecoming Week: Chilean Edition

                Last week I was informed that we would begin celebrating the 34^th anniversary of Liceo Gregorio Urrutia, the high school with which I am working. I was not exactly sure what to expect (as with many things here) but excited to share in some community celebration. I was also told the afternoons would be filled with competitions rather than classes. Also, I was advised that there would be two “alianzas” or alliances- Roja and Azul- divided by homerooms. My head teacher’s class belonged to the Alianza Azul but I chose to pledge allegiance to the Rojas.

Monday morning began with an opening ceremony at 11am. The director, Don Ruben, spoke and a few students received awards. The choir sang then two beautiful songs and the National Anthem (which I have yet to learn) and the #1 Cueca Couple entertained us with the national dance. Following the ceremony we indulged in empanadas and wine with some municipal bigwigs and fellow colleagues. The afternoon was filled with team challenges; spelling tests, math quiz, karaoke and a trivia quiz. One of the questions was the Republican Candidate for U.S. presidency. Saludos, Mitt Romney.

On Tuesday there were more competitions and activities for the students as the teacher began preparing for the dance routine. As we brainstormed, there was suggestion of me playing Olivia Newton John and my host teacher, Milton, would be John Travolta ala Grease Finale. I am happy to say that idea was later extinguished.

Wednesday the teams of professors spent the morning listening to and choreographing our dance to El Fotografo by Adrian y los Dados. [For those interested, here is the inspiration http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytBjwYgyQ84] After lunch and a quick costume change, we all ventured to the municipal gymnasium for the talent show. Singing, stand-up and suggestive dances in boxer briefs by young men were all to be seen. The latter of which would not have happened during my high school’s homecoming week. The other professors chose a role-reversal, women dressed in mustaches and men in wigs and dresses provided much entertainment and competition. We followed with our somewhat dysfunctional dance but had a fantastic time. That evening was the Staff Dinner. Nelson cooked a lovely meal and we shared wine and conversed. I had my first FantSchopp. Yes, beer + Fanta. We danced around the cafeteria for awhile, at one point Sergio toasted Barack Obama, and when the Old Smuggler Whiskey came out with a 2.5 Liter bottle of Sprite and lemons, I decided to excuse myself and head for home.

Thursday morning was a day of physical activities including various futbol matches and paldin, a traditional Mapuche game involving hockey-like sticks and a ball played on a field. I visited the Stadium for the first time. It is a walk over a scenic yet shaky footbridge crossing the river. There were flocks of goats and chickens casually strolling around the field. Following was a float competition, more representative of my high school experience. Both were manipulations of ships, one including a dragon breathing “fire,” which was actually a fire extinguisher NOT being used for its intents and purposes. That evening was their version of the homecoming dance. The teachers, though assumed supervisory roles for the most part, danced for awhile and watched the crowning of king and queen.

Finally on Friday a few professors sent out for churrascos and chatted in the Teacher’s room for a few hours before closing out the week. It was a new experience for me to participate in activities as a teacher rather than a student. I embraced the celebration and am happy to have had the opportunity to participate.

Whoaa! We’re half way there...

12 weeks down, 12 weeks to go. It is hard to believe that I have been here 3 months already. I left just after Memorial Day and now, thanks to friends Facebook updates, I remember it is already Labor Day Weekend. In the last three months I have vastly improved my Spanish, even started thinking in Spanish after the first month. I have experienced new foods, people, and an educational system. I have attended baby showers, birthday parties, visited a newborn baby in the hospital on my birthday, and seen a traditional cueca dance competition. I have gone to mass in Spanish. I have been blessed by an aji pepper. I have traveled many hours in buses, increasing my tolerance for public transportation. I have been to Temuco more times than I can count, Liquine, Valparaíso, Vina del Mar, La Serena, Pucón.

My adoptive family has gone above and beyond to assure my comfort. We have excellent conversations over homemade bread and café de polvo and we watch television together every night. Antonia and I play games on my iPad and learn English at every opportunity. I have my laundry done and dried by the fire. They recently gave me a new desk and Chilean shabby chic bedding. The school has been very welcoming and I love talking to the other teachers. I feel like part of a great community.

There are many things I miss but am able to deal with. Internet access allows me connect easily with family and friends. Julietta and Bruno fill the lacking of my favorite (and only) left handed pup, Toby. Mate (strongly caffeinated Argentinean herbal tea) has minimized my coffee cravings. The one thing I REALLY could use is a Packer Football Sunday, or even better a trip to Titletown.

                Not always having the exact words I want to say while participating in conversations has forced me to slow down my thoughts and listen more closely. I am very grateful for the opportunities I have already had and look forward to experiencing even more. My hopes for the next second half of this experience is to further improve my Spanish , continue to embrace each day rather than yearning for what is not here, and attempting to learn and teach as much as possible in the next 12 weeks. 

¿Cuánto cuesta? : The cost of living in Chile.

After a suggestion from my finance-savvy father, I decided to delve into the economical differences in Chile versus the United States. While my circumstances are different than the Chilean citizens (receiving only a volunteer stipend and having my room and board taken care of by a wonderful family), I am still participating in the consumerist country.

From the experiences I have had thus far and research I have done, it is clear to me why the majority of 20- and even 30-somethings still live at home. The average monthly salary working 42 hours a week is equivalent to $350. A standard one-bedroom apartment in Temuco is $200-$250 a month. The culture supports the adult children to live at home and continue to boost the economy. Discussions with friends and teachers at the school have enlightened me that they believe Chile to be one of the more expensive countries in South America. This is credit to the low salaries and higher cost of living. Some individuals in the South of Chile cross into Argentina to work. The consumer tax rate is 20% on any item, food included with the exception of port cities. As discussed with some other volunteers, saying you are going for coffee or going out with the intention of simply eating is often times followed with confusion. Many products here cost exponentially more than they would in the States, specifically those needing to be imported. Fruit, wine, bread= cheap. Barbies, iPads, Clinique makeup= crazy caro.

My host family and I watch the news together in the evenings after Pobre Rico¸ our favorite primetime telenovela. This has exposed me to learning about the system. One interesting difference is that each of the 4 main department stores has banks associated with them.  In a recent conversation with Tatiana and Juan, I learned that obtaining credit for ANYTHING here is very easy. However, paying credit bills is not effectively monitored with inconsistent forms of mail and common pre-pay cell phone services.  Additionally, all stores and commercials advertise paying in “cuotas,” or payment plans without interest. In the past two weeks there have been at least two news stories each night about “becas” (scholarships) and “bonos” (bonuses or handouts) for everything from first-generation college student to being married for 50+ years.

In Temuco on any given Friday the mall and stores are PACKED with shoppers, not to mention the apparent paydays at the middle and end of the months. When purchasing anything, the cashier will ask for the RUT number, most closely associated to our Social Security Numbers, and citizens earn points based on purchases. I have not yet gotten a clear explanation as to what these points are used for and truly wonder if anything manifests from them.

Overall, the Chileans are great consumers but at what cost-? At the risk of offending, I have avoided asking about savings and investments. I cannot quite get a grasp at the percentage of people living outside and above their means. The country is still very much developing and admits to “copying” how the United States and other countries operate.

In other news, September 1^st marks the month of celebrations. On Monday my high school is beginning the celebration of the 34^th Anniversary. I am pretty sure I have volunteered to dance “Rock N Roll” with my students. In two weeks we will celebrate Independence Day in Santiago and then spend a few days in Argentina.

Ciao for now!